Where Time Froze

As the millennia turned, something magical unfolded across an entire civilization. Prosperity, like a rocket, elevated hundreds of millions from the forgotten middle kingdom into a new economic stratosphere. In the summer of 2001, while studying Chinese in Beijing, I witnessed firsthand the last vestiges of an old world—a world where almost everyone resided amid the decrepit remains of a system that seemingly benefited no one.

At the time, perhaps no one could fully grasp the magnitude of the change on the horizon. Yet, within a few years of that eye-opening summer in the nation's capital, demolition crews were transforming cityscapes everywhere, leveling entire blocks to make way for sleek residential high-rises and office towers.

Today, in most first and second-tier cities across China, a somewhat ubiquitous version of modernity prevails! However, the (sometimes) iniquitous redevelopment efforts couldn't erase everything. Thus, the story is far from over!

Amidst this sweeping change, wonderful remnants of Asian culture and echoes of past prosperity still remain, quietly awaiting their resurgence. Recently, two dear friends and their beautifully spirited children visited Zhongshan from Shenzhen. Together, we explored the old villages in and around the city—discovering enduring remnants of Zhongshan’s past.

Zhongshan is truly special. Nestled on the east side of the Pearl River Delta, it has long remained a secluded gem, bypassed by the rampant development affecting areas closer to Guangzhou and the Zhuhai/Macau economic zone.

Today, the back alleys of its old village districts still reveal glimpses of a time when Zhongshan thrived as the centre of its own economic universe—a period kick-started by Portuguese arrival and extending well into the 20th century.

The city's colourful past fuels hope that city planners will adopt a fresh approach in weaving the new economy into the fabric of Zhongshan, especially with the recent completion of a mega freeway/bridge traversing the Delta.

Thankfully, city officials do seem to recognize the irreplaceable value nestled within these old districts. Tasteful gentrification has commenced, and experiencing this transformation is a little reminiscent of that summer in Beijing over two decades ago.

For an architectural enthusiast, strolling through these living-museum alleys offers a unique chance to witness the gradual descent of one era and the dawn of another—offering a front-row seat to the unfolding modern narrative.

Sigh, sigh, from behind the red doors of the Middle Kingdom, stories just continue to evolve.